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The People Who Made This Island

Lanzarote · 2 min read

The People Who Made This Island
Foto: LastMinuteAdventure

An island of fewer than two hundred thousand inhabitants has produced, and adopted, a surprising number of people who changed how the world sees it.

The name everyone knows is César Manrique (1919–1992), born in Arrecife. Painter, sculptor, architect and activist, he turned volcanic tunnels into concert halls and an abandoned quarry into a cactus garden — and, more importantly, spent his life fighting the high-rise development that would have made this island look like every other. What Lanzarote looks like today is largely his argument, won.

The name that surprises visitors is José Saramago (1922–2010). The Portuguese writer, the only Nobel laureate in literature in his language, moved to the village of Tías in the early 1990s and lived here until his death. He wrote much of his late work on this island and filled the notebooks published as the «Lanzarote Notebooks» with it. His house, with its library and its garden, is open to visitors — one of the most moving small museums in the Canaries, and a place of pilgrimage for readers in Portuguese, Spanish and a dozen other languages.

Long before either, Jean de Béthencourt, a Norman knight, landed in the south in 1402 and began from Lanzarote the European conquest of the Canary Islands — making this small island the doorway to an entire archipelago. Three centuries later, a parish priest named Andrés Lorenzo Curbelo did something no one asked him to do: he wrote down, day by day, what the great eruptions of 1730 looked and sounded like. Almost everything we know about those six years comes from him.

Science has a Lanzarote name too. Blas Cabrera (1878–1945), born in Arrecife, became one of Spain's most important physicists, a specialist in magnetism who worked alongside the leading figures of European physics of his time and helped bring Einstein to Spain.

And there are the ones without statues: the farmers who invented a way to grow vines in ash, the women who carried water, the fishermen who named every rock along the coast. Manrique understood that his own work rested on theirs — which is why the island he defended was not a monument, but a place where people still live.

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